By mid April, our greenhouse will be jam packed with hanging baskets and hundreds of trays of blooming annuals and tomato plants. Our parking lot will be converted into a little garden center, with tables filled with blooming plants and the ground covered with blooming shrubs, perennials, tropicals, and roses. We will answer a million questions about flower and vegetable gardening and landscaping by the time May has ended. In this column I'll answer one of those questions, with the subject being container growing.
How do I choose plants to go in a mixed pot? The plants that you put together in a container should be chosen for the reasons I'll list below. And remember, that a container does not have to be a conventional pot, it can be a wagon or a box or an enamel ware bowl or a concrete trough or anything you can think of.
1. Sun requirements. All the plants should need full sun, or part sun or shade. i.e. Don't plant an impatien in the same pot with a lantana and a geranium.
2. Water needs. All the plants should require similar amounts of water. i.e. Don't plant moss roses with lobelia.
3. Color. Pick a color scheme you like. Monochromatic is shades of one color. Complimentary colors are purples and yellows, or reds and greens, or oranges and blues. Aggressive colors are oranges, reds, and yellows. Receding colors are blues, greens, and violets. What colors do you like best?
4. Thrillers, chillers, and spillers. This refers to the levels of plant growth that make an attractive container garden. A "thriller" is the tallest plant in the pot. The dracaena spike is commonly used, but don't be afraid to try something new. For real drama in a large pot in full sun, plant a hibiscus or lantana tree in the center for height. The "spiller" is the plant that will grow and drape over the side of the pot. Wave petunias, Million Bells, and verbena are great choices for spillers in the sun. The "chiller" is the plant that is of medium stature and upright and branched and fills in the space in the middle of the pot. Good examples are geraniums, aryranthemum, vincas, or Bandana lantanas.
Always ask questions regarding plant choices when you visit our greenhouse. We can give you information you can't always get at the big box stores. Our staff includes 2 horticulturalists with a combined 35 years of experience with plants.
We get a lot of questions about rose plants. The biggest selling rose is the Knockout Rose. The great thing about Knockouts is that anyone can grow one! They are disease resistant, insect resistant, and they bloom a lot! They are a shrub rose, and they are grown on their own rootstock, instead of being grafted, which makes them hardier.
Also available this spring are David Austin roses, hybrid tea roses, climbing roses, and floribunda roses.
We are now currently adding the flowering shrubs, perennials, tropicals, and annuals that we will have to sell this spring on our website www.ravennagreenhouse.com. You will be able to see pictures of flowers and plants and read about how to care for these plants.
Our inventory this spring will include several varieties of Hydrangeas, including Pinky Winky, Limelight, Paris Cityline, Vienna Cityline, Incrediball, and Invinceable Spirit, any of which would make a great Mother's Day gift!
Call us with your inquiries concerning availability of plants at 606-723-2175 or 1-866-408-2559.
Happy Gardening!!!!!!
Wednesday, March 30, 2011
Sunday, March 13, 2011
Topping a tree is unacceptable behavior!!!
In the March issue of All Things Country Eric Baker wrote about topping trees. He explained all the reasons why you shouldn't top a tree. Thank you so much, Eric! I will now expound upon that subject!
Do you ever look at the bare trees in winter? Were you ever taught in school or Boy Scouts how to identify a bare tree by the shape, size, and growth pattern of the branches? I learned to observe trees in winter after reading a book that showed the branch structure of many trees. Now, when I walk the dog in the woods, or hike, or ride in a car, I notice the trees and try to identify what kind they are. Most commonly, people identify trees by their leaves or fruit or flowers or bark. And, of course, you can identify a tree by the cross section of it's wood. My point to all this identification talk is this: Can you identify, for example, a maple tree, in winter by its branch structure after that tree has been topped??
Have you ever noticed what a topped tree looks like in winter? The sight of a topped tree in winter is one of the ugliest sights I've ever seen. It ranks right up there with trash along the roadsides and potholes! A big fat trunk with some knots on the top of it and maybe some wimpy looking sucker branches on top of that is a horrible sight to a person who has spent a career working with plants.
I need to point out some basic things that can prevent that terrible urge to butcher a tree.
1. Don't plant a 40,50, or 100 foot tall tree under power lines.
2. Remember a 6 foot tall tree will grow into a large tree.
3. Read the description of your tree before you plant it so you understand how tall it will grow.
4. Look up before you plant.
5. Take in to consideration what kind of tree you have. If you have a 100' Pin Oak tree, you have a very strong tree. It probably will never be uprooted in a storm, or split and drop big limbs, so there is no excuse for topping it..
6. Every tree, as well as every other kind of plant, will leave behind some debris, such as leaves, small limbs, and flower petals, as the seasons change and the wind blows. This does not justify torturing the tree by topping it.
7. If you hate your tree so badly that you want to top it, please just cut the tree down instead of maiming it until it finally dies.
8. If you don't like trees at all, don't plant them.
While we are on the subject of trees, let me mention roots. The largest percentage of a tree's roots are near the soil surface. Those huge tap roots that people fear below the ground in their yards don't exist.
Evil roots are not below the surface trying to find a way to wreak havoc. The root zone of a tree is roughly as large in diameter as the canopy of the tree. If a tree's branches are about forty feet in diameter, its roots are about forty feet in diameter surrounding the tree. Tree roots naturally grow toward water if it is available, and they will invade a crack in a pipe to seek water. This is why it is not advised to plant a tree in the septic system drainage field. There is a product available to pour in your septic system that contains copper, which acts to prune roots that have invaded a pipe.
As you may have guessed, topping trees and talking trash about innocent trees is one of my pet peeves.
I apologize if I have offended anyone!
Do you ever look at the bare trees in winter? Were you ever taught in school or Boy Scouts how to identify a bare tree by the shape, size, and growth pattern of the branches? I learned to observe trees in winter after reading a book that showed the branch structure of many trees. Now, when I walk the dog in the woods, or hike, or ride in a car, I notice the trees and try to identify what kind they are. Most commonly, people identify trees by their leaves or fruit or flowers or bark. And, of course, you can identify a tree by the cross section of it's wood. My point to all this identification talk is this: Can you identify, for example, a maple tree, in winter by its branch structure after that tree has been topped??
Have you ever noticed what a topped tree looks like in winter? The sight of a topped tree in winter is one of the ugliest sights I've ever seen. It ranks right up there with trash along the roadsides and potholes! A big fat trunk with some knots on the top of it and maybe some wimpy looking sucker branches on top of that is a horrible sight to a person who has spent a career working with plants.
I need to point out some basic things that can prevent that terrible urge to butcher a tree.
1. Don't plant a 40,50, or 100 foot tall tree under power lines.
2. Remember a 6 foot tall tree will grow into a large tree.
3. Read the description of your tree before you plant it so you understand how tall it will grow.
4. Look up before you plant.
5. Take in to consideration what kind of tree you have. If you have a 100' Pin Oak tree, you have a very strong tree. It probably will never be uprooted in a storm, or split and drop big limbs, so there is no excuse for topping it..
6. Every tree, as well as every other kind of plant, will leave behind some debris, such as leaves, small limbs, and flower petals, as the seasons change and the wind blows. This does not justify torturing the tree by topping it.
7. If you hate your tree so badly that you want to top it, please just cut the tree down instead of maiming it until it finally dies.
8. If you don't like trees at all, don't plant them.
While we are on the subject of trees, let me mention roots. The largest percentage of a tree's roots are near the soil surface. Those huge tap roots that people fear below the ground in their yards don't exist.
Evil roots are not below the surface trying to find a way to wreak havoc. The root zone of a tree is roughly as large in diameter as the canopy of the tree. If a tree's branches are about forty feet in diameter, its roots are about forty feet in diameter surrounding the tree. Tree roots naturally grow toward water if it is available, and they will invade a crack in a pipe to seek water. This is why it is not advised to plant a tree in the septic system drainage field. There is a product available to pour in your septic system that contains copper, which acts to prune roots that have invaded a pipe.
As you may have guessed, topping trees and talking trash about innocent trees is one of my pet peeves.
I apologize if I have offended anyone!
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